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Ball jointed doll tutorial part 3 by Deskleaves Ball jointed doll tutorial part 3 by Deskleaves
Part 3. There is more coming soon.

[First page] [link]
[Part2] [link]
[Part4] [link]
[Part 5] [link]
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:iconcindy70r:
cindy70r Featured By Owner Oct 25, 2016
love tutorial
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:iconsiphonia:
Siphonia Featured By Owner Oct 10, 2016  Hobbyist Digital Artist
thank you for making this! I've had my materials for a while now but I've been too scared to start, this encouraged me to start and I've already got the head and torso done! thanks again!
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:icondeskleaves:
Deskleaves Featured By Owner Oct 12, 2016  Professional Digital Artist
No problem! It takes practice and everyone develops their own methods. I'm working on one too right now!
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:iconcheckeredjoker:
CheckeredJoker Featured By Owner Oct 1, 2015  Student Digital Artist
Thank you so much! It's been my dream to start making BJDs, and your tutorial is amazingly helpful. <3
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:icondeskleaves:
Deskleaves Featured By Owner Oct 2, 2015  Professional Digital Artist
You're welcome! I'm almost always active, so feel free to contact me if you run into any problems or have any questions. Thanks you and enjoy!
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:iconfuckink-san:
FuckinK-san Featured By Owner Jun 25, 2015  Hobbyist Digital Artist
Could paper towel be used instead of cling film to cover the aluminium foil if it were to be used for the core????
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:icondeskleaves:
Deskleaves Featured By Owner Jun 25, 2015  Professional Digital Artist
It could actually, but just be aware that you won't be able to remove it completely. Like the foil, it will also be stuck in the clay forever to some degree, but luckily it won't be rough on/degrade the elastic string.

You can also use cheap toilet paper or newspaper for a core covering! Just get whatever material that you decide to use nice and soaked, and let it completely dry before building the clay onto it.
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:iconadindard:
Adindard Featured By Owner Mar 30, 2015
Can we use the aluminium foil too for the body core?
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:icondeskleaves:
Deskleaves Featured By Owner Mar 30, 2015  Professional Digital Artist
Yes, you can! Just be careful not to pack it too tight, or it will be hard to remove. Also, wrap it with plastic wrap so it won't stick in the clay.
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:iconmzandramayhugh:
MZandraMayhugh Featured By Owner Mar 23, 2015  Student General Artist
So, I've seen WIPs of people making dolls with Apoxie and they're nearly always grey - I was wondering about color options. I've looked around and Aves does have some different color options, but I'm wondering if the best idea is

A) To buy smaller sets with colors and mixing the Part A until its the skin tone you want, putting that in a large tub, and mixing in the part B as you go along like you would regularly, or

B) just getting white Apoxie and mixing in a dye, or

C) making the doll entirely white and using a boil dye method later when it's finished?

Do you have any thoughts? I have some pretty specific skin tones in mind with all of the dolls I want to make. 
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:icondeskleaves:
Deskleaves Featured By Owner Mar 24, 2015  Professional Digital Artist
I normally will use the grey epoxie, sand, spray-finish with a matte/eggshell textured type of stuff commonly used for Warhammer minis, and then paint with acrylics. There are a million different ways you can go about this. A lot of perfectionist BJD makers only use the epoxy to sculpt the original doll. Then, they make a mold, and pour liquid resin into the mold to make a new doll with the desired skincolor.

You can also put dye right into the epoxy, if it's just pure color pigment. get some white epoxy 2part and some powdered pigment, and just put it in a little at a time into one or both parts until it's the right color. But beware: This can cause your parts to come out as all different shades if you put both parts together, as the chemical reaction occurs quickly once the two parts are mixed.
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:iconmzandramayhugh:
MZandraMayhugh Featured By Owner Mar 24, 2015  Student General Artist
I only want to use epoxy, I don't have the means or desire to try casting anything for a while yet. And I really don't want to paint my doll. 

With the dye - if I only mix it into part A (since part A is the colored one when you get it from the manufacturer with the color already in) and do the whole batch, wouldn't it all come out the same color? 
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:icondeskleaves:
Deskleaves Featured By Owner Mar 25, 2015  Professional Digital Artist
Hmmmm it should. :V I don't see any reason why it wouldn't. If you try this, would you be a dear and let me know how it turned out?
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:icontrailerhitchbitch:
trailerhitchbitch Featured By Owner Mar 12, 2015  Student General Artist
Wow I got a few questions. Does the cling wrap need to go on everything including the torso and limbs? Also how do I get the aluminum out? I was having the biggest struggle getting it out when splitting the chest pieces. Lastly what is a recommended thickness? I'm using premier stoneclay
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:icondeskleaves:
Deskleaves Featured By Owner Mar 12, 2015  Professional Digital Artist
You have to put the cling wrap on all parts that will be removed. Otherwise, it will stick to the clay badly, and won't be removed.
The parts that you are having difficulty removing the foil with- did you wrap them in cling film before putting clay over them? If so, and they still won't come out, I reccommend you use a pair of tweezers and pull pieces out from the center. Then, try to collapse the remaining foil into the space you created, and pull it out. The cling film should remove really easily.

I reccommend the clay layer to be at least as thick as the width of your pinkie nail. If it's too thin, remember that you can add thickness by putting more clay inside the parts rather than outside them.

Let me know if this helps, or if it doesn't work for you.
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:icontrailerhitchbitch:
trailerhitchbitch Featured By Owner Mar 14, 2015  Student General Artist
I'm just having a hard time keeping the cling wrap to be tight and get the clay to stay on. :/ I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong? Maybe I need better cling wrap? Also how do I get the tin foil to be collapsible enough to slide the torso parts out even though they're supposed to have like the nubs for the shoulders and legs?

I'm sorry for all the questions! I really appreciate your responses C:
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:icondeskleaves:
Deskleaves Featured By Owner Mar 15, 2015  Professional Digital Artist
With the cling wrap, as you wrap the piece, pull it really tight. Kinda stretch it.

Those 'nubs' that were supposed to be there are only there to keep a HOLE where the nub USED to be. The nub things are supposed to come out, they are just place holders.

Also, as far as the foil being collapsible enough to pull out, you must use tweezers or something to take a few layers out of the middle. This will create an empty space. You should be able to use the tweezers to push the remaining foil into the empty space and remove it. In the future, this problem can be avoided by not packing/squeezing the foil so tightly when making the core.
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:iconfarumir:
Farumir Featured By Owner Jan 1, 2015   General Artist
Do the ball cores need to be foam or would wooden beads work? I got a bunch of them meant for a necklace but nobody needs them, and they are just the right size for the doll I want to try making.
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:icondeskleaves:
Deskleaves Featured By Owner Jan 1, 2015  Professional Digital Artist
You can use wooden beads, but it will be really difficult to carve the slots into the beads. If you use the method where you remove the core, then absolutely. Just be sure you wrap them in plastic wrap or paper first, some kinds of clay can fuse to wood.
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:iconfarumir:
Farumir Featured By Owner Jan 2, 2015   General Artist
Yeah that's what I mean, for making a core. But would wooden beads be a wise core if you're using a baked clay like Sculpy III?
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:icondeskleaves:
Deskleaves Featured By Owner Jan 2, 2015  Professional Digital Artist
Yes, they are safe to bake! Will you write back and tell me if the clay sticks to the bead? I never tried wood with sculpey.
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:iconfarumir:
Farumir Featured By Owner Jan 2, 2015   General Artist
Sure. By any chance do you know how to make a moving neck, for something with like a horse's neck for example?
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:icondeskleaves:
Deskleaves Featured By Owner Jan 2, 2015  Professional Digital Artist
Yes, you can just make the body slotted where the neck attaches, so it will slide back and forth, as if the shoulders/torso were a joint, and the neck were a leg or arm piece.
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:iconfarumir:
Farumir Featured By Owner Jan 2, 2015   General Artist
Hmm, I never thought about that. O.o My last hurdle now is a moving jaw for a canine-like snout, which I can no tutorials for except for beaks. Any suggestions for a moving jaw with teeth? I'm thinking of making this into a BJD you see.
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:icondeskleaves:
Deskleaves Featured By Owner Jan 2, 2015  Professional Digital Artist
It can be done with just pins or pegs holding the lower jaw on, but I haven't found a way to make it so that I could adjust how wide the jaw comes open. I had put pearl magnets in the jaws so that, when the jaw wasn't open, I could just snap it shut and it would stay there. Also, small objects could be held in the dragon's mouth that way.
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(1 Reply)
:iconjoeynuggetz:
joeynuggetz Featured By Owner Edited Dec 13, 2014
Whats the purpose of the cling film. Is it so the clay doesn't stick to the foil? You say not to press the foil ball too tightly but if its too loose its like a spiky ball. Seems like I'll need a ton of saran wrap if the goal is to make sure none of the indentations of the foil can be felt. Please clarify. 

Also, how big should the ball be? If I go by the picture it leaves very little room for eye holes and I'm sure I'll hit foil in no time. 
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:icondeskleaves:
Deskleaves Featured By Owner Dec 14, 2014  Professional Digital Artist
It is to keep the clay from sticking. You can roll and rub the ball smooth, but don't compact the ball so tightly that it's a solid chunk of metal, or it will be a nightmare to remove. It's fine if there are indentations, dents, and wrinkles. The inside doesn't need to be that smooth. But, if you don't use saran wrap, the clay will be incorporated into the foil, and you won't be able to get the foil out. The best you will be able to do is get most of it out, and the rough foil could fray your elastic later on, or cause rust to leak out of the doll.

The size of the ball entirely depends on the size of the doll you are making. Make sure it's a little smaller than the finished joint will be. The ball should represent the negative space inside the ball. Thhere should be as much space between the foil ball and the blueprint ball as the desired thickness of clay for the joint.

Also, as far as the head and eye sockets go, lots of clay will be sculpted on to the head after the foil ball has been removed. If you try and sculpt the face on before removing the foil ball, some of the features may become damaged, so the head you are getting at this stage is a rudimentary 'skull' for you to build on, and should be much thicker during the final stages of sculpting. If you're worried you've made any of the parts too thin despite sculpting, you can also add clay to the inside as well.
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:iconhenrytrettenbach:
HenryTrettenbach Featured By Owner Oct 25, 2014  Student General Artist
Thank you for this insightful tutorial! :)
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:iconkworking:
kworking Featured By Owner Aug 15, 2014  Hobbyist General Artist
These tutorials are by far the best out there! You o through every detail and walk the person through step by step. I hope to one day make one of these once I've collected all the right materials and have my doll perfectly planned out.

Thank you for this! It makes my hope to make one of these possible. :heart:
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:icondeskleaves:
Deskleaves Featured By Owner Aug 15, 2014  Professional Digital Artist
Sure, of course! I made it because I had the same frustrations. There are NO good tutorials, and the ones that there are, are in chinese, japanese, or korean. none of which I can speak, nor read. D:

I still haven't made the painting and hairing tutorial, but luckily there's already lots of them out there.
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:iconkworking:
kworking Featured By Owner Aug 16, 2014  Hobbyist General Artist
I think I'll wait for the painting and hair tutorials made by you. It's a complicated process but I think you can walk me through it better than anyone else. When do you think they will be out?
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:icondeskleaves:
Deskleaves Featured By Owner Aug 16, 2014  Professional Digital Artist
I'm not sure, I have a current workload, so at least a few months. It's pretty basic, so at least it won't take me long to make when I do have time.
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:iconjacksquash:
JackSquash Featured By Owner Jul 26, 2014  Hobbyist General Artist
I need to do a better job of reading, when I use tutorials. I most definitely forgot a few things. (Namely, how to actually sculpt....)

I have also decided that DAS is not a good clay for me. Sculpey is easier for me to manage (and it's not as messy. Idk if I was using it wrong, but I ended up with a light layer of it coating my palms. xD)

I WILL finish this project, though! Thank you ever so kindly for your very detailed tutorials that i have to pay more attention to..
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:icondeskleaves:
Deskleaves Featured By Owner Jul 27, 2014  Professional Digital Artist
Yeah, DAS will coat your fingers and dry out your hands.

Sculpey is MUCH easier to work with, but baking it is really risky since it usually takes forever to sculpt the face perfectly, and even a minute too long can be really ugly and warped. Then you lose like 9 or more hours of work because it baked too long. D: So I usually try to get people to buy air dry resin... But it's not a strict rule that you MUST use only SPECIAL clay or anything. You could probably make a BJD out of cat turd.
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:iconjacksquash:
JackSquash Featured By Owner Jul 27, 2014  Hobbyist General Artist
I tried to find some, but the stores I went to didn't have any air dry resin OTL

The worst thing that's happened to me with sculpey is the cracking, but with the simple things I made, it was pretty fixable with superglue.
I just hope this one turns out alright. I don't think I crafted the cores properly. (They're pretty loose and unshapely.)

And I accidentally made the head and ears separate (not actually making a human, I'm making the bouncy guy in my avatar xD) SO. HOPING i'll be able to attach it properly...at some point.
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:iconkooky112:
kooky112 Featured By Owner Feb 22, 2014  Hobbyist Writer
I am mainly going through this because of the fact I ordered some BJD bodies and stuff and wanted to see how long it takes to make these. The people from China said it would take 20 to 30 days to make the parts and send them to me so I'm trying to wait patiently... It's a bit hard to do so though when you spend close to 600 dollars on two doll bodies and they are your first BJD's ever.
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:icondeskleaves:
Deskleaves Featured By Owner Feb 25, 2014  Professional Digital Artist
30 days is actually ridiculously fast, there must be many people working on them, or ready-made bases. For me, it takes like 3-4 months to make a doll; even longer if I'm delayed by life events.

Part of the reason they're so fucking expensive is because of the materials, but most of it is because of the time and skill it takes to make a good one.
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:iconkooky112:
kooky112 Featured By Owner Feb 25, 2014  Hobbyist Writer
AH ok that makes sense. I bought my doll bodies off of Ebay (cheaper than a website). I'm actually getting two of them, paying a total of 600 for both. Hopefully these people making the doll bodies don't take too much longer before Ebay starts yelling at them. I've spoken a few times with them and they are decent people (even though they don't speak english very well).
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:icondeskleaves:
Deskleaves Featured By Owner Feb 26, 2014  Professional Digital Artist
I've always found bad English to be really charming. xD I'm learning to speak Finnish and I suck, so I can only hope the Finns think of it as the same. xD;
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:iconkooky112:
kooky112 Featured By Owner Feb 27, 2014  Hobbyist Writer
lol! I wish I knew someone who did speak chinese who could talk to these people for me. They misunderstood me the first time when I told them the skin color I wanted for the doll and I would send pics of the finished dolls and they thought the dolls were already done lol!
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:iconteddywadeart:
TeddyWadeArt Featured By Owner Jul 3, 2014  Professional Digital Artist
I speak Chinese. :D
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:icondeskleaves:
Deskleaves Featured By Owner Mar 19, 2014  Professional Digital Artist
You can try posting an ad on DA, in the projects forum. Maybe someone there will help translate for you.
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:iconkooky112:
kooky112 Featured By Owner Mar 19, 2014  Hobbyist Writer
eh it's all good. The dolls made it to my artist and work is currently being done on them now. So far everything is looking good, these are the first BJD's she's ever done before too.
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:iconpuppunk:
puppunk Featured By Owner Feb 6, 2014  Hobbyist Digital Artist
when you say to let things dry, if using sculpey that would be the baking period right?
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:icondeskleaves:
Deskleaves Featured By Owner Feb 25, 2014  Professional Digital Artist
Right! Very good. Bake and cool.
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:iconbattyechan:
BattyeChan Featured By Owner Dec 25, 2013  Hobbyist General Artist
Hehe "weed scale" "dont make the joint too big" "baggie" XD you can tell :PP cheers for the tutorial really helped me :)
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:icondeskleaves:
Deskleaves Featured By Owner Dec 25, 2013  Professional Digital Artist
Good, I'm glad. ^^
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:iconkijiwater:
kijiwater Featured By Owner Dec 20, 2013  Student General Artist
your tutorials are so thorough detailed and helpful. !
 LOL weed scale. 


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:icondeskleaves:
Deskleaves Featured By Owner Dec 20, 2013  Professional Digital Artist
SPICE SCALE xD SHHHH
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:iconlidiabartlam:
lidiaBartlam Featured By Owner Oct 16, 2013   General Artist
What about balls for the ankles? 
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